Commercial Door Hardware

We stock door closers, hinges and pivots, panic and exit devices, thresholds, and the related parts that keep storefront and commercial doors running. If you don't see a specific part online, call us and we'll help you track it down.

Start with the door's width, weight, and where it's installed, since exterior doors deal with wind and need more closing power. Then decide on the mounting style (surface, overhead concealed, or floor) and whether you need a hold-open feature. The closer's size or adjustable spring power should match the door.

A surface closer mounts on the face of the door or frame, so it's easier to install and service. A concealed closer hides in the header or floor for a clean look, which is common on aluminum storefronts. Concealed units take more prep but look better on glass entrances.

Usually, yes. Most closers have separate valves for sweep speed, latch speed, and backcheck. Turn the sweep valve in small steps (about a quarter turn) and test after each one. If the arm leaks oil or the door still won't slow down, it's time for a new closer.

A panic device, also called an exit device or panic bar, lets people open a door by pushing a bar. Building codes often require them on exit doors in places like stores, schools, and offices. Your local building department or fire marshal can tell you exactly what applies to your space.

It depends on the door and frame. Rim devices latch into a strike on the frame and are the easiest to install. Mortise devices lock into a pocket inside the door. Vertical rod devices latch at the top and bottom, which is common on double doors without a center mullion. Check your existing prep before you order.

Measure the width of the door opening and the depth from the door stop outward. Then think about how it's used: ADA-compliant thresholds keep the rise low, and saddle or weatherstrip styles help seal out drafts and water. Material and finish usually match the door frame.

In short, hardware should be easy for everyone to use. Think lever or push handles instead of knobs, manageable opening force, and low threshold heights. Look for products labeled ADA-compliant, and check with your local code official on the exact requirements for your project.

Fire-rated doors need hardware that's also listed for fire-rated use, including closers, hinges, and exit devices. Mixing in unrated parts can void the door's rating. If you're working on a fire door, confirm the listing on every component before installing.

Support the door so it can't fall, remove the top pivot and lower the door off the bottom pivot, then swap in the new part. Note the offset and the handing (left or right) before you order, because pivots are handed and come in different offsets.

Handing describes which side the hinges are on and which way the door swings. Standing on the outside, if the hinges are on your left and the door swings away from you, it's a left-hand door. Many parts, like closers and pivots, need to match the handing, so it's worth checking before you order.

Both. We carry full units and a range of replacement parts like arms, spindles, strikes, and cylinders. If you have a model number from the old part, send it along and we'll help you match it.

Common commercial finishes include aluminum, dark bronze, satin stainless, and black, though availability varies by product. Matching the hardware finish to your door frame keeps everything looking clean.

Simple jobs like swapping a threshold or adjusting a closer are doable for a handy person. Exit devices, concealed closers, and anything on a fire-rated door are better left to a pro, since mistakes can affect safety and code compliance.

Check them a few times a year, and more often on busy entrances. Look for oil leaks, loose screws, and doors that close too fast or don't latch. A quick adjustment or tightening can add years to a closer's life.

Have the brand, model number, finish, handing, and door size ready, and take a few photos of the existing hardware. That usually gets you the right part the first time.

Usually it's one of three things: the closer's latch speed needs adjusting, the strike is out of line, or the hinges or pivots are worn and the door is sagging. Adjust the closer first, then check the strike alignment. If the door drags, look at the hinges.

Yes. Frameless glass doors use patch fittings, pivots, and floor closers made for glass. They're a different category from storefront aluminum hardware, so let us know the glass thickness and door size when you order.

In-stock products ship the same day. Special-order items take longer, and we'll give you a timeframe when you order.

Yes. Send us your hardware schedule or a list of openings and we can help with pricing and availability. For large or recurring orders, give us a call at 800-505-6311 to talk it through.