Patio Door & Wardrobe Door Parts

We stock rollers, handles, locks, latches, weatherstripping, and other parts that keep sliding patio doors working, along with parts for sliding wardrobe and closet doors.

Maybe, but check the easy stuff first. Clean the track and lower threshold, then try adjusting the roller height with the screws near the bottom of the door. If it still drags, the rollers are probably worn.

Look for adjustment screws at the bottom corners of the door, usually behind small plugs. Turning them raises or lowers the door. Make small adjustments on each side until the door glides and lines up with the frame.

Remove the stop or head rail if needed, lower the rollers all the way, then lift the door up into the top track and swing the bottom out. Patio doors are heavy, so always have a second person help.

Measure the old roller's housing length, width, and height, plus the wheel diameter. Note whether the wheel is steel or nylon and if it's a single or tandem roller. Photos help us match it quickly.

A tandem roller has two wheels in one housing, which spreads the door's weight and makes it glide more smoothly. They're common on heavier patio doors.

Doors can sag or shift over time. Try adjusting the rollers to raise or lower the door so the latch lines up with the keeper. If that doesn't work, the keeper on the frame may need to be moved or replaced.

Measure the distance between the mounting holes, check the door's thickness, and note whether you need a keyed or non-keyed handle. Matching those will make sure the new handle bolts right on.

Start with a solid lock and latch in good condition. Adding a secondary lock or a security bar gives extra protection. Also make sure the door can't be lifted off the track by adjusting the rollers.

In many cases, yes. Damaged aluminum tracks can often be capped with a replacement track cover instead of replacing the whole frame. Measure the track width and profile first.

Common causes are worn weatherstripping, a clogged weep hole in the sill, or a door that's out of adjustment. Clear the weep holes, replace worn seals, and check that the door seals tightly when closed.

We carry rollers, bottom guides, tracks, and hardware for sliding mirrored and panel wardrobe doors, the kind you see on many closets.

Check the bottom guides and rollers first. Worn or broken rollers can let the door jump the track, and a loose bottom guide won't keep it in line. Replacing those parts usually fixes the problem.

Remove a roller and measure the wheel diameter, the housing size, and how it mounts to the door. Some are top-hung and others ride on the bottom, so note which type you have.

Not really. There are many different styles, and the right one depends on your door's brand and design. A photo and a few measurements help us match it.

Clean the tracks, replace worn rollers, and use a dry silicone lubricant. Nylon rollers are generally quieter than steel ones for lightweight closet doors.

Yes. If the frame is in good shape, the mirror panel can often be replaced. Measure the visible mirror carefully and note the thickness. If you're not sure, we can help with sizing.

Mirrored doors typically need safety-backed mirror or tempered glass, since they're in a spot where people can bump into them. Check your local code and ask us which options meet it.

Often, yes. Many older doors use rollers and handles that are still made or have close equivalents. Send photos and measurements, and we'll do our best to find a match.

If the frame and glass are in good condition, new rollers, weatherstripping, and a handle can make an old door feel new for much less than replacing it. If the frame is bent or the glass seal is failing, replacement may be the better choice.