Glazing Tools

You'll need a good glass cutter, a straightedge or T-square, running pliers or breaking pliers, cutting oil, and safety glasses and gloves. A padded cutting table makes a big difference too.

Steel-wheel cutters are cheap and fine for occasional use, but they dull quickly. Carbide wheels last much longer and give cleaner scores, which is why most pros use them. If you cut glass regularly, carbide is worth it.

Yes. Oil keeps the wheel spinning smoothly, cools the score, and helps it run clean. It also makes the cutter last longer. Oil-fed cutters make this easy since they lubricate as you go.

Usually the score is uneven, too heavy, or you went over the same line twice. Use steady, even pressure in one pass and break the glass soon after scoring. A dull cutter wheel can also cause rough breaks.

Running pliers help a score split cleanly along its length. Breaking or grozing pliers let you snap off narrow strips and nibble at edges. Many shops keep both on hand.

Use a diamond core bit made for glass, keep the bit wet with water, and go slow with light pressure. Drilling halfway from each side helps avoid chipping. Only drill annealed glass, since tempered glass will shatter.

Diamond core bits are the standard for clean, round holes. Spear-point carbide bits can work for small holes in thin glass. Pick the bit size based on the fitting going through the hole, and add a little clearance.

For a basic safe edge, run a sanding block or diamond hand pad along the edge to knock off the sharpness. For a polished edge, you'll need an edger or a series of finer abrasives.

It's a handle with rubber cups that grip the glass so you can lift and carry it safely. For large panels, mirrors, or shower glass, they make handling easier and help keep fingers off the edges. Pick a lifter rated for the weight you're moving.

Keep the rubber pads clean and store them covered, away from sun and heat. Check the pads for cracks and never go past the rated weight. Lifters with a vacuum indicator show you when the grip is weakening.

Cut-resistant gloves, safety glasses, and closed-toe shoes are the basics. For bigger panels, add arm guards and a cut-resistant apron. Glass cuts can be serious, so don't skip this step.

Yes. We have caulk guns, smoothing tools, and scrapers to help you lay a clean bead of sealant. A good dripless gun makes a real difference on long runs.

A glazing knife or putty knife is used to apply and smooth glazing compound, pry out old glazing points, and scrape old putty from frames. A flexible blade is handy for delicate work.

A circle cutter is the easiest way to get clean round shapes. For freehand curves, score slowly and steadily, then use running pliers and breaking pliers to take off the waste a bit at a time.

No. Tempered glass can't be cut, drilled, or edged after tempering because it shatters. All the work has to happen before the glass is tempered, so double-check your measurements.

Many cutters use replaceable heads, so you just pop the old head out and snap in a new one. Match the wheel angle to your glass thickness when you order.

Lower angles tend to work better on thin glass, while higher angles are made for thicker glass. If you mostly cut one thickness, choose the head that matches it. Ask us and we'll point you to the right one.

Keep cutters in a small jar with a bit of oil and a cotton pad in the bottom so the wheel stays lubricated. Keep suction cups covered and out of the sun, and drill bits dry and organized.

Yes. Mirror work uses many of the same tools as glass, plus mirror-safe adhesives, mirror clips, and edge sealers that won't damage the backing. Let us know what you're working on and we'll help you gather everything.

Start with a quality carbide cutter, cutting oil, running pliers, a straightedge, and good safety gear. Practice on scrap pieces before tackling your project. If you get stuck, call us and we'll help.