Glazing Supplies

We stock sealants and silicones, glazing tapes, setting blocks, shims, glazing points, gaskets, and mirror adhesives, along with the other everyday supplies installers go through on the job.

It depends on the job. Neutral-cure silicone is safe on most surfaces and a must for mirrors. Structural silicone is used where the sealant carries load. For showers and bathrooms, look for a mildew-resistant formula.

No. Acetoxy (vinegar-smelling) silicones can eat through the mirror's silver backing over time and cause black spots. Use a mirror-safe adhesive or neutral-cure silicone made for mirrors.

Setting blocks are small rubber blocks placed under the bottom edge of a glass panel in a frame. They support the glass's weight and keep it from touching metal or the frame bottom, which prevents stress and breakage.

Glazing tape is a double-sided foam or butyl tape used to bed glass into frames. It cushions and seals the glass, and it's often paired with a cap bead of silicone for a weathertight seal.

Glazing points are small metal pieces pushed into a wood window sash to hold the glass in place before applying glazing compound. They're mostly used on traditional wood windows.

Shims help level and space glass or frames during installation. Choose one that's rigid enough to hold weight and the right thickness for the gap. Plastic shims are popular because they won't rot or rust.

Yes. Storefront gaskets seal the glass into aluminum frames. Gaskets are made to fit specific frame systems and glass thicknesses, so bring the system name or a sample of the old gasket if you can.

It's usually tack-free within about an hour, but a full cure can take 24 hours or more depending on bead size, temperature, and humidity. Check the label and avoid getting it wet before the recommended time.

Cut away as much as you can with a razor scraper or plastic blade, then use a silicone remover to soften what's left. Clean the surface with rubbing alcohol before putting on new sealant so it bonds properly.

Use a mirror mastic or mirror-safe adhesive, applied in vertical strips so air can circulate. For larger mirrors, add mirror clips or a J-channel at the bottom for extra support.

Glazing compound is a putty used on traditional wood windows that hardens over time and can be painted. Silicone stays flexible and seals against water, and it's used in most modern glass installations.

Yes, once it's skinned over and cured, which can take a few days to a couple of weeks depending on the product and weather. Painting it helps protect the compound and extends its life.

They can. Clear sealant blends in almost anywhere, while white, black, bronze, and gray help match frames. Pick a color that works with your frame finish for the cleanest look.

Keep them in a cool, dry spot out of direct sunlight, and cap opened tubes well. Check expiration dates, because old sealant may not cure properly.

Usually it's surface prep. Dust, oil, soap residue, or old silicone can keep new sealant from bonding. Clean the surface, dry it completely, and use a primer if the product calls for one.

Besides the glass and hardware, you'll want setting blocks, shims, a mildew-resistant clear silicone, and the right anchors for your wall. Having everything ready before the glass arrives keeps the install moving.

Give us a call at 800-505-6311 to talk about quantities. Many of our customers are in the glass trade and buy supplies regularly, so we're used to larger orders.

Butyl tape stays tacky and flexible, so it's great for sealing out air and water. Foam tape gives more cushion and is easier to handle. The right one depends on your frame system and the gap you're filling.

Definitely. Send us a photo of the old part, the frame system, or a description of the job, and we'll help you figure out what you need.